I really enjoyed this book the first time I read it, when it was called Long Dark Tea-Time of the Soul.
I did enjoy reading about some of the tourist attractions I've driven by. What especially did not help was that the book I had just finished was a thrilling tale of revenge with a passionate protagonist. I find it difficult to enjoy anything from the perspective of a character that doesn't give a shit about their own existence; doubly so by such an immediate contrast. I do remember a place in AG where the dialog suddenly got a lot better and I think this is due entirely to Gene Wolfe, who is thanked in the afterward.